After 7 days and 47 miles, we’ve made it to the end of the “W” trail! On our final leg of Patagonia’s “W” trek, we hike to Grey refugio. It’s also T’s bday and a fun way to celebrate this special day.
This is our first view of Glacier Grey – simply stunning.
A million dollar birthday view
Glacial beauties on Lago Grey
Grey refugio has a 2 for 1 special on Chilean red wine. After T mentions his birthday is today, the staff fills our wine glasses full to the brim! We dine with fellow hikers and share in this joyous moment.
Grey refugio , a bit icy this morning
Clear skies greet us as we take the ferry back to Pudeto to catch a bus returning to Puerto Natales, the closest airport.
All good things must come to an end. Since this is our first through (multiple day) hike, we believe it’s not the end, but the beginning of many treks. We hiked through countless streams and rickety bridges, scrambled a few boulders and experienced the fierce wind.
We leave Patagonia with a deeper awe and admiration of the power of the mountain, skies and water. The possibilities to explore are endless.
While riding the bus to exit the park, Patagonia’s parting gift to us are picture perfect images of the Paine Massif.
Chile’s Las Torres del Paine National Park is a region of extremes. Most fair weather hikers visit Patagonia in Nov through Feb to avoid the rains, but the trade offs are crowded trails and over stressed refugios.
We trade predictable weather for the Fall season, and take our chance with the rain.
Refugios post the weather forecast (temps, rain, wind gusts) for the next 3 days. This helps us figure out how many layers to wear and what time to start our hike for the day.
The 7 mile downhill hike from Chileno to Cuernos refugio is long, but refreshingly peaceful. The wind is not as strong as yesterday’s hike to Torres, and the trail is astonishingly void of other hikers.
Calming Lago NordenskjoldBlimp-y cloudsRock hopping over streamsWobbly bridge crossings
Arriving at Cuernos Refugio, we are rewarded with a deluxe tent upgrade at no extra charge. For the past 2 nights, our tent has either been on the floor, or on a wooden platform. This deluxe model is 6 ft off the ground, wide body with thicker mats to cushion our tired bodies.
Look Ma, no blisters!
An oversized poncho, rain pants and backpack cover keep our legs and backpack dry, but our boots still get soaked!
The hike from Cuernos to Frances refugio has the most scary river crossing. Last night’s pouring rain drenches our tents and the rivers are swollen. 1/2 mile before the river, several hikers from the opposite direction warn us not to use the ropes that spans the river, but to go upstream to find a safer crossing. I’m getting nervous as we hear the roar of the river. There’s NO WAY we can safely cross with our backpacks!
Staying calm, we follow a couple upstream to where the river narrows. The gal goes first, jumps onto a midstream island, then like a gymnast, jumps onto a balance beam metal strip, grabs an overhanging tree limb and swings onto the bank. Her partner follows and I’m next. Without hesitation, I go for it. My reach barely catches the tree when the guy in front of me grabs my arm to steady me. Thanks dude! T follows gracefully and lands like a ballerina. (Guys have longer limbs!)
With wet boots and socks, we check-in early to camping at Frances Refugio. The tent is a little moldy and feels extra small, but we don’t care. Foregoing dinner, we stay in our tent from midday to the next morning to wait out the storm.
Tips: Hot showers helps warm the core. Always bring an extra set of dry clothes and socks to change into.
Stretching hamstringsSoaked clothesPrettiest restroom at Frances
Wood burning stoves attract boots of all sizes and smells. Unfortunately Frances refugio did not have one like Central’s. Luckily we encounter only 2 days of rain during our 7 day trek
Tips: To keep slightly damp (not soggy) clothes dry, stuff them into the inside of your sleeping bag. The heat from your body will warm them up for the morning.
Heat it baby!Always a woodchuck!
The winds in Las Torres del Paine is no joke. A hiker can comfortably hike in 5-10 mph winds, but during strong winds of 35+ mph, it feels like walking backwards when trying to go forwards.
Tips: determine the direction of the wind, take cover and wait for it to pass, or … go in the same direction and let the wind carry you and your pack away!
The power of the windLean in
Due to snowy conditions, we skip hiking the “W”s 2nd most difficult hike at Mirador Britanico. The view from afar is still spectacular.
That night, temps in our tent drop to 0 °C (32 °F). It’s a good thing our sleeping bags are rated for these conditions!
Tips: For more warmth, and as a 2nd layer, use a silk sleep sheet inside your sleeping bag. A buff (neck/head scarf) works great to keep the head warm.
The joys of hiking Patagonia’s “W” trail is to embrace the unexpected. Rain, snow and ice can be just as beautiful as a clear sunny day. We are blessed to share these sights with Mother Nature.
How do we fuel our bodies for a 7 day backpack trek in Chile’s Las Torres del Paine “W” trail? Since we’re not fans of canned goods or dehydrated food – we cheat! T purchases in advance all our meals to pick up at each refugio. Hot meals sound much more appetizing than a cold can of tuna.
Chilean breakfasts are very simple and filled with protein to keep us strong during our trek. Each morning we are seated at the communal table and have scrambled eggs, yogurt with oatmeal and cocoa puffs, toast, ham-cheese slices and coffee.
After breakfast, we pick up our lunch bag to later eat on the trail. It’s always a dry hockey puck sandwich from yesterday’s meat and cheese (meh), an orange, chocolate protein bar (yum), a bag of nuts (my favorite) and a Trencito milk chocolate bar (just so-so).
Dinner are the meals we most anticipate and get excited about. Each refugio has its own chef. Rumor on the trail says that Cuernos refugio has the tastiest meals.
We arrive at Cuernos at the same time as a muleteer (mule driver). He’s wearing a Chilean woven poncho, chupallah (traditional horseman’s straw hat) and is whistling a tune. 2 pack mules follow their lead with side bags loaded with supplies. Could this be something yummy for tonight’s dinner? Yes! We dine on Chilean salmon over a bed of buttery mash potatoes. This is by far the best meal of the week!
Happy belly = Happy hikerSalmon at CuernosChicken over mushroom couscousBerry and granola topped with whipped cream
At the Paine Grande refugio, dinner is a buffet with beef stew, braised chicken and happily, several veg options.
Meals at refugios are expensive at $61/day for full board (all meals) per person, or if purchased individually $19-breakfast, $19-lunch, $32-dinner. We did not hesitate to purchase all our meals. Not only does this lighten the load on our backs, but we also get the opportunity to meet many cool hikers at the shared table. Hikers from all over the world unite as we share adventures on the trail.
The “W” trek is a 47 mile hiking trail in the shape of a “W” in Chile’s Torres del Paine National Park. Along the trail are refugios, rustic sites to rest for the night with the option to purchase meals. Ambitious hikers can hike this trail in 4 days, but we opt for a more leisurely pace of 7 days and 6 nights.
For hardcore hikers, there’s the “O” trail which includes the “W” trail and loops completely around for 70 miles in total.
T does a great job with researching and sorting through the many confusing websites. He books advance reservations for the end of March, between Chile’s summer and fall seasons. Most travelers will pay a tour agency to take care of the details, but not T. He enjoys the challenge of figuring things out, and a chance to save a few bucks too!
The options for housing along the “W” trek include: 1) carry all your gear and pay a campsite fee 2) rent a pre-setup tent and mat 3) rent a cabin 4) share an indoor dorm-like room. We opt for option 2) to rent a tent and pad to lessen the weight of our backpacks from 30lbs+ to 25lbs.
Other travel bloggers advise hikers to “Save the best for the last”, but we beg to differ. Hiking the most scenic and hardest trail first makes sense on a through hike when our legs are still “fresh”. We hike the “W” from east to west tackling the famed Las Torres del Paine (Towers of Paine) on our first hike.
We begin at Central refugio for a 3 hour uphill hike to Chileno refugio. After hiking 2 hours to the top of the mountain, and rounding the ridge, the wind howls in our ears. It picks up speed through the barren valley and slams us into the mountainside. (Thank goodness not off the ledge!) Wind gusts of over 40 mph are super strong today. Too scared to look down into the valley, I focus my gaze up front, one foot at a time. With backpacks snuggly on, we crouch like beetles, low to the ground and forge ahead. Luckily no sunglasses or hats are lost!
Arriving at Chileno refugio at 12 noon, it’s still windy. We unload our packs at Chileno’s storage cubbies and switch from heavy packs to lighter day packs. We slam down a quick sandwich, then get back on trail by 1pm. Time is of the essence since the trail to the base of Torres closes at 2pm. This allows plenty of time for hikers to return before dark.
Torres is one of 2 difficult hikes on the “W”trail, as the last few kilometers are filled with switchbacks and require boulder scrambling. It’s easy peasy for us since we’ve been practicing uphill hikes with a backpack full of dumbbells at home!
Torres view from Central refugioTaking a well deserved breakAnts marching up the mountainSuper windy at the top
At the base of Las Torres del Paine, the winds quiet down, the clouds part and the sun shines gloriously upon us.
Exhausted with weary legs, we hike back down to Chileno refugio for the night. OMG, our tent platform is up a steep hill, with no carved path … and on the third level of tents. That’s one more hill to hike on this very thrilling day!
The hardest part about hiking Patagonia’s “W” trek is getting there!
It takes us 3 days to arrive at Chile’s Patagonia Torres del Paine National Park. Our journey includes multiple airplane transfers, an airport sleepover, 2 days in Buenos Aires, Argentina waiting for T’s missing luggage, and 1 night stay in Puerto Natales, Chile.
Caterpillar in a silk sheet2am brew in Santiago, Chile
Upon arriving at 10am to Puerto Natales, we receive a very warm welcome from owner host Pancho. We give 5 stars to Treehouse Patagonia Hostel for Pancho’s charming decor, cleanliness and friendly hospitality.
Nice decorChoose your coffee optionCheese and ham slices for breakfastAlmost there!
We wake at 5am for an early morning bus and shuttle ride to Torres del Paine National Park.
Whew, we made it! It’s raining, but a beautiful rainbow welcomes us to the start of our 7 day trekking adventure.
Our first day at Central refugio campsite is a travel rest day as we settle in and check out the dining options.
Since Chile’s fall weather changes by the hour, we are expecting sun, rain, sleet, snow – possibly all in one day. Let the journey begin!
funandfreedee 