EMERGENCY GEAR TIPS

Turnagain Arm, AK

After driving Wonder for the past four years on long road trips, I’ve been asked several times what to pack. I have finally narrowed down what I need for vehicle breakdown and safety equipment.

I try my best to pack emergency gear based on the location and terain of our trip. Hope this list will help you before you head out on your next adventure.

Hazard triangles

Tire puncture kit

Sand traction mats

Battery jumper

Tire inflator

ROAD TRIP ESSENTIALS:

• Road flares, be careful when to use them/or not if dry brush is nearby
• Reflective vest (keeps me visible at night)
• Reflective hazard triangles (finally used them when we assisted in a vehicle rollover)
• A full hand tool bag with battery powered drills and drivers
• A cigarette adapter tire inflator (tire air can be hard to find)
• A Firestone tire puncture kit (nail tire repair kit)
• Portable car battery jumper kit (can’t always find another car to help with a jump)
• RV balancing blocks (helps level off our sleep spots if sloped)
• Sand traction mats (used once to help a fellow camper get out of the sand)
• Rain parka (we tend to break down during rainstorms)
• Extra potable water (5 gallons spare)
• Backpacking water filter (remote camping spots)
• Empty gas can
• Spare parts (extra fan belt, spark plugs, condensers, hoses, duct tape)
• Rope and tow straps
• A can of tire puncture repair (once used, your tire will not be repairable later)
• Cracked windshield repair kit with resin (this saved me many times)
• CPR mask (not that I would do mouth to mouth any longer?)
• One pair of flex cuffs (in case someone gets crazy out there)
• Small shovel
• First aid kit
• Glow sticks (batteries may run out)
• A tarp (helps when laying down under Wonder)
• Bear spray and whistle

Note: If driving to Alaska, bring 2 spare tires, we needed both!

 

ALASKA WILD

While driving throughout Alaska, it surprised me how many free fishing spots there are in this wild state. Alaska produces more than half the fish caught in waters off the coast of the United States, with an average wholesale value of nearly $4.5 billion a year. Alaska’s fisheries are among the best managed, most sustainable in the world. (reference: Alaska NOAA Fisheries)

Cooper Landing, AK

Every port town we wandered thorough amazed me with the large amounts of fish caught, the freshness of the fish and the massive size of their catch.

Annual fishing derbies bring out the most competitive fishermen. The record for the heaviest halibut for this season exceeded 300 pounds, caught by Frida, a female fisherwoman – You go Girl!

Frida’s catch

It is impossible to find fresh fish to buy at the docks as a direct consumer. Because of the volume of fish caught, the fish must be flash frozen and vacuum sealed immediately to keep its freshness. All fish for sale are previously frozen. Instead of cooking fresh fish inside Wonder, we enjoy our halibut and salmon at restaurants.

On the road to Homer I thought about signing up for an all-day (twelve) hour charter boat for salmon, halibut and black cod. At the end of the day, I watched customers haul out their catch. Charter boat fishing expeditions range from the high of $450 to the low of $250 a day, which is only ½ the cost of this sport. Adding the cost for tips to the captain and crew, hiring a fish cutter to filet the fish, hiring a vacuum sealer, and finally shipping the fish home, would have of cost me close to $1,000 for the day. That’s expensive fish!

Someone in Alaska once told me, “You have to be a lawyer to fish in Alaska”. The fishing
regulations are complicated, extremely enforced and if you are caught violating the rules, you will be fined, your fishing equipment and gear seized, and possibly the seizure of the transportation vehicle carrying the contraband (Wonder)? I decided that I would not fish in Alaska without a fishing license.

Wildlife sightings while driving to Alaska did not disappoint us. Most of Alaska’s highways have 40 feet of low brush clearings on both sides of highways. This helps drivers identify wildlife ahead and hopefully prevents auto and wildlife collisions. Driving head on with a 800 plus pounds moose or bear could be a bad day for Wonder. It’s sad news when the State of Alaska posts the count of bear and moose hits on the road. Annually, hits in Alaska range into the high hundreds. Luckily our 2 close encounters avoided hitting the animal.

We spotted the following throughout our twenty-five days of driving in Alaska, Yukon and British Columbia:

10 – black bears

2  – grizzly bears

7 – stone sheep

6 – moose and baby moose

1 – caribou

Herds buffalo but very few cows and horses

Alcan hwy

Haines hwy

Alcan hwy

Be careful on the roads, stay alert and slow down for wildlife!

HOMER HIGHLIGHTS

Homer Spit is one of our favorite places in Alaska. It’s a 4.5 hour drive south of Anchorage.

This charming seaside village on the Kachemak Bay is located at the end of the Kenai Peninsula. Our first glimpse of the spit is “Wow!” Views of the surrounding ocean, glaciers, and high peaks are absolutely stunning.

Homer is known for halibut fishing, bear watching and tours to neighboring islands. We sign up for a tour to Gull Island and Halibut Cove. With a day’s wait for the ferry, we explore the spit.

Ahoy mate! It’s time to take a break at the Salty Dawg Saloon. This historic pub has thousands of signed dollar bills covering the walls, ceiling and doors. According to folklore, a customer tacked a dollar bill on the wall with intentions to buy a drink for a friend… and this act of kindness carries on!

It’s show time! The morning fishing boat has just returned and fisherman are vying for bragging rights of the biggest catch of the day.

We take time to enjoy sites along and near the Homer spit boardwalk.

Shopping

Mermaids!

Art gallery

Peaceful memorials

Beluga Slough boardwalk is a great place to birdwatch and to explore the wetlands.

Got Halibut Chips? We finally find a reasonably priced cafe for fish & chips at the Boardwalk Cafe. The basket full size of crunchy halibut chips cost $24, a deal compared to the basket in Seward for $54!

Finally, the day has arrived to set sail to Gull Island and Halibut Cove. What a special day to celebrate our 35th anniversary! The morning is overcast, but our spirits are high as we begin our voyage. We are handed rain ponchos and a warning that we will get sprayed by the seas. The question is how soaked will we get?

Danny J

Sailing by Gull Island we see Kittiwake gulls roosting in rock crevices, common mures flapping their wings and puffins fluttering in the sky. All of a sudden, there’s commotion among the colony. A juvenile eagle is hovering above and causing quite a commotion. The army of birds take flight to scare away this intruder as he realizes Gull Island is a no fly zone!

Halibut Cove is a 60 minute ferry ride across the Kachemak Bay. The waters are rough leaving the harbor, bearable crossing the bay, and become still upon entering the cove. We quietly glide into the narrows.

This quaint charming village is accessible only by boat and has no roads. Homes, tucked away in private coves are built on stilts. Can we stay for a few more days?

We dock at the Saltry Restaurant and escorted up to our table overlooking the waters. Taking our seats in weather beaten chairs, we breathe in a sigh of relief … to the many days on the road … in cramped quarters of the van. Ahhh. .. we have arrived.

Lunch is delicious, homemade rolls, mussels fresh from the local farm, seafood chowder, and a sampler plate of Saltry’s signature appetizers – Halibut ceviche, pickled salmon with sweet kelp, and salmon pate. And lastly, we can’t forget the chocolate cheesecake!

The boardwalk stroll after lunch is just as delightful as the meal. Surprises greet us at each corner we turn.

Halibut cove has the only floating post office in Alaska. This cute houseboat shack is permanently tied to the dock.

The walk to the post office

It’s 3:45pm and time to board the Danny J ferry back to Homer. All passengers have been accounted for, with surprisingly no overstays. The ferry ride back is silent as we reflect on images of this very special place.

ALONG THE PARKS

In 1924, the Parks highway was named in honor of Alaska Territory’s first governor, George Alexander Parks. We drive from Fairbanks to Anchorage on the Parks highway and visit Denali National Park and Preserve and Denali State Parks.

Denali National Park and Preserve encompasses over 6 million acres of Alaska’s wilderness. It’s centerpiece is Denali mountain, towering at 20,310 ft, North America’s tallest peak. On most days the summit is hidden by clouds formed by moisture from the Gulf of Alaska. For a better a view of the peak, go to Denali State Park’s north and south viewpoints.

It’s free park admission on the first 15 miles into Denali National Park. To go further you’ll need to purchase a tour, or have reservations for lodging/camping. We stop at milepost 15 and hike along the Savage River. After a week of buggy weather, today is crisp, clear and so enjoyable!

Denali’s Savage River Trail

Low tundra in Denali NP attracts lots of MOOSE!!! An old cow is taking her time munching a snack along the road. Since vehicles are limited in the park, she has no worries of people or cars.

Denali NP is the only national park with a team of working dogs. These dogs carry on the traditions of dog sledding in Alaska. In the winter, Canine Rangers help park rangers patrol the borders and bring supplies to camps not accessible by vehicle. Visit the kennels or attend a sled dog demonstration to learn more about these amazing creatures that are born to run.

A $ buck for Buck

Patiently waiting

Haw( left) or gee (right)

After leaving the Denali Area, we take the Talkeetna turnoff. On Friday night, this busy little town is filled with families strolling Main St. The locals have gathered in the City Park to listen to live music. We blend into the crowd, relaxing in our soccer chairs, with a slice of Mountain High Pizza Pie and a refreshing Alaskan brew.

The Iditarod Trail headquarters in Wasilla is along the Parks Highway, just 45 mins north of Anchorage. Each March, the Iditarod Dog Sled race takes place on this historic trail. Mushers and their sled dog teams of 12 to 14 race from Anchorage to Nome, over 1,000 miles in 8-15 days. The trail headquarter has a good video on the history of the race, with emphasis on how the dogs are bred and cared for. In the summer, you can take a ride in a cart pulled by sled dogs in training.

We spend 3 days along the Parks highway, but one can easily make the trip longer if wilderness tours are included in your itinerary (ie: bus, aerial plane, helicopter, glacial, grizzly viewing, etc). Go slow and watch out for animals because they will appear when you least expect them!

NAILS, ALASKA

Ever been to Nails, Alaska?

It took us six days of driving from WA thru Canada to get to Alaska. It was a wonderful wooded drive however it rained most of the time.

The roads were fairly empty because not too many peeps are willing to drive this distance to get to Alaska? All went well thru BC however when we got into Yukon Territory the roads changed from good to worst. Ever been to Nails, Alaska?

We ran into lots of road construction work delays and frost heaves. These are like speed bumps while going 60 mph. Ouch!! Frost heaves occur and makes deep dips in the road due to the winter snow compressing some parts of the road. Alaska repairs roads during their very short summer season. Wonder didn’t like the heaves but we caught some air at the same time.

Stripes warn for loose gravel

Ok, back to Nails, Alaska which is NOT a location but an experience. Wonder experienced a nail in two different tires within three days. Wow this was work!! The first tire I changed out to the spare tire in the rain, and the second, I found a gas station to help me out. We drove around Fairbanks and could not find a replacement spare tire. Finally I found a used spare to buy in Anchorage.

Wonder’s tires are insured for puncture insurance, however the WA tire company wants to see in-person the non repairable tire. So Wonder is carrying back 6 tires back to WA. Oh yea, the old tire smells like old rubber too 😦

Wish us well, because we are not even one third thru our Alaska adventures yet. Gotta get back to enjoying Alaska!

Another sticker to our collection

T, Vanlife Driver and Tire Handyman

ON THE ROAD AGAIN

Travelers to Alaska refer to their highways by names of people or places, such as the Cariboo (gold fields), Stewart-Cassiar (mining district), Parks (1st governor of AK) and the ALCAN.

The ALCAN highway (Alaska/Canada hwy) is an amazing feat of team power and national pride. It connects the contiguous United States to Alaska across Canada. It begins at Dawson Creek, BC, runs through Whitehorse, Yukon and ends at Delta Junction, Alaska. The original 1,500 mile highway was completed in 1942 during WWII, and finished in just 18 months by over 19,000 Army Corps soldiers, citizens and volunteers. Today, with reconstruction and rerouting the hwy has been shortened by 60 miles to 1,382 miles in total.

The end of ALCAN

Official seal

We drive a portion of the ALCAN from Yukon to Fairbanks, AK and will complete the ALCAN returning home.

Yukon Territory

alpine lupine

Roads that go on forever

What do vanlifers do to keep entertained during long stretches of roads? Brochures picked up from gas stations give us local info and ideas on sights to see.

Quirky sights

Bear aware

Smash ‘em

Finally Alaska!

How do vanlifers keep fueled? Costco gas and the app GasBuddies show us where to go for the cheapest gas.

At the beginning of our trip, we picked up several bagged meals and snacks for the road. Fresh rice with an instant pot makes a nice warm hearty meal. Since we were cautious of crossing the Canadian borders with fresh fruits and veggies, we opted for dried fruits, nuts and canned vegs for the first week.

Trader Joe’s fare

Costco 5 lbs meat, NOT!

1st dine-in meal after 6 days on the road

Kettle corn!

Ahhhh, we’ve reached the uppermost destination of our journey, Chena Hot Springs, 1 hour away from Fairbanks. This is exactly what we need after 6 days of sitting in a car. The temps from the ground are discharged at 153° degrees. But with a cooling water source from several fire hoses, it’s “just right” at 106°. We soak in the magical healing powers of this natural hot spring and are ready to explore Alaska!

ONWARDS ALASKA!

It’s beginning June and the right time of the year for a road trip to Alaska. We’re on a 1 month journey with Wonder, our Promaster van and anticipate 6 days of solid driving to AK. This road trip begins in the Pacific Northwest passing through Canada’s British Columbia and Yukon provinces.

Ayeska Pipeline, Richardson Hwy, AK

We normally fly by the seat of our pants with itineraries, but this trip is different. Since we have huge distances to cover over rugged territory, we need a plan. Preparation, packing and researching are one of the fun parts of road trips. We look to our van life peeps, Winston to gather tips for an itinerary. He and his wife are full time van lifers with many trips to AK under their belt. Thanks W&V!

Cariboo Hwy, BC

Ahh… after a 6 hr drive on Day 1, we breathe in beautiful British Columbia’s fresh air. The Cariboo Hwy is surrounded by cerulean blue skies and boggy ponds.

Our first stop for the night is Mount Begbie Lookout tower. This is 1 of 11 towers in this region overlooking 9 million hectares. We take a short hike to the top of the tower with mosquitos buzzing in our ears.

Canadian mosquitos appear to be just as hangry as Alaskan skeeters. They can squeeze into every little crevice to attack its victim. Gotta take a crap? They will follow you to the privies to make a snack of your rear!

We are equipped with the latest vanlife hack, a new bug wall screen for the side door. This allows us to watch these critters from the inside while they are buzzing around on the outside. For any that manage to get inside the van, a mosquito racket zaps them alive! Always use bug spray and cover up while going outside. Even though you can’t see them – they are out there along with their cousins, the gnat!

Driving to Alaska is not for the faint of heart. It’s wild and wicked out there. But, for the prepared, it can be one crazy fun adventure!

Hope, BC

VANLIFE SURPRISES

We’re off to a great start on Day 2 of our 1 month long journey to Alaska. Making good time through beautiful British Columbia, we rest for the night at Burns Village Lake. This town has graciously provided free lakeside camp spots with restroom facilities and an inviting waterslide into the lake.

Where are the swimmers? Either it’s still too cold or too many mosquitos. We’re not brave enough to test it out!

Day 3, along the Stewart-Cassiar Hwy brings early morning surprises. Before I can yell “MOOSE!!!” out from the bushes, a young adult bull rushes in front of Wonder. We narrowly clip his hooves as he gallops to the other side. Our hearts are pounding as we recover from this close encounter. Watch out over there, there’s a black bear in the distance! Luckily there’s plenty to time to allow for a safe crossing. Was the moose chasing the bear or vice versa?

We settle into a beautiful wild camp spot on the shores of Mehan Lake. The following morning is cloudy and wet as we receive one more surprise.

Oh, no! Wonder’s front dash panel flashes LOW TIRE PRESSURE. T finds a construction nail lodged inside the tire tread. We’re 200 miles away from the next big town, and it’s a Sunday when most repair shops are closed. Luckily, Bell 2 Adventure Lodge is off the next hwy exit and surprisingly their maintenance shop is opened. This lodge is so remote, and the drive is so far, many travelers arrive by helicopter. T borrows the shop’s garage bay and air tools, and quickly replaces the flat with our spare. Whew that was a close one.

On long road trips to remote areas, pack a tire jack, tools, tire repair kit and a full sized tire (or 2 spares while traveling to AK). Don’t rely on Google for instructions because in the wilderness, there’s no cell service out there. Call AAA for a tow? – only in your dreams!

Gas stations are far and few in between when driving BC’s scenic Stewart-Cassiar highway. Depending on the time of year, not all stations are opened. In these areas, we carry a 5 gallon container of spare gas. Bring more than one credit card (ie: visa, Mc Amex) because fuel machines have rejected our cards with no explanations.

Yikes, an expensive big rig fill up!

When driving to Alaska through remote territory, you really need to be reliant on your own self. Whatever can happen, will happen. We’re only 3 days into our month long trip and these surprises have created exciting stories to share around a warm campfire.

CRABS AHOY!

During 4 days in July on Camano Island, WA, life pauses when crabbers brave the chilly waters of the Puget Sound to try their luck with catching Dungeness crabs.

The crabbing season opens Thursdays-Mondays, from July 1 to Labor Day, but the largest and most plentiful runs are in the first weekend.

Dave, our kind neighbor and experienced crabber of 30 years teaches T the art of crabbing. The goal is to learn the rules, catch the daily limit and survive the crabbing season with all fingers intact!

Follow these 10 steps for a successful crabbing season:

1) Pay the state fee and get a crabbing license.

2) Equipment – Find up a friend with a boat!

Crabbing essentials: life vest, buoy, flags, cages, bait box, ropes, flex ties, carabiners, catch bucket and, oh….. don’t forget the crab crackers!

No need to buy new, since most stuff can be found used on fb market.

3) Buy bait early before it runs out. The rule of thumb is that the older and stinkier the bait, the better!

4) Launch site – stuff as much bait into the bait boxes to last several days. At high tide, round up your buddies to help carry the boat and equipment to the water’s edge. Team work is essential since you’ll be catching more crabs than you can eat 🙂

5) Slowly row/motor out to “the secret spot”. It’s important to pre-tie the cages with ropes long enough to reach the bay’s floor. Hoist the cages out of the boat and gently drop them into the bay. These cages will remain in the water for the next 4 days.

6) Check cages daily. The limit in our area is 5 crabs per day per license. Each crab should be larger than 6.25″ and must be males (lucky female crabs!) When pulling up the cage, wear heavy duty rubber gloves to protect the hands. Crabs meeting the size requirement are placed into a 5 gallon bucket, others are returned back to sea.

Before arriving back to shore, record the day’s catch and size in your crabber’s logbook.

7) On shore, flip craps upside down to avoid runaways and admire your catch!

Cleaning can be done at the shore or at home. Want to make friends? Give a few extra crabs to your favorite neighbors.

8) On Monday (Day 4), all crab cages need to be pulled and brought back home. The crabs are allowed 3 days to rest from all crabbing activity.

10) Enjoy your catch and be creative with your recipes! The possibilities are endless. Crabs can be stored in the freezer, vacuumed sealed in an air tight bag for up to 3 months, but we prefer to eat them fresh just hours from the bay.

Crab salad

Custard, rice and soy sauce!

Cajun crab boil

With butter dip

With vinegrette dip

Crab cakes ready for the oven!

Thanks Dave for inviting T to be your crabbing buddy and showing him the ropes. The crabbing tradition on Camano Island continues!

APPRENTICES IN TRAINING

We are proud parents to 300 baby oyster seeds!

Master Oyster Rancher Todd has introduced to us the world of oyster farming. This new hobby started with a morning stroll on the beach at low tide and a casual chat between neighbors. Our first question we asked Todd, “What are those baskets laying on your beach?” which lead to an educational conversation all about oysters. Our chat ended with, “You should really try this out!” So… our journey begins as oyster rancher apprentices.

Mid May in the Pacific Northwest is the ideal time to start our oyster garden. Utsalady Bay’s salty brackish cold waters provide an ideal habitat to grow Pacific Oysters. The seeds originate from broodstock that breeds the triploid. Male and females do not exist in this species, so all energy is diverted from reproduction to growth. According to the University of Washington Fisheries Professor Kenneth Chew, developer of the triploid Pacific Oyster, “The old adage that oysters should only be eaten during months with an “r” does not apply to triploids”. Just to be safe, before harvesting, ranchers should check the local Shellfish Safety Information for water conditions.

On seed pick up day, we wake up before dawn to carpool 2 hours to Taylor Shellfish Farms. Thanks Kris for driving and providing stimulating conversation for the not so long drive!

Arriving at the farm, there’s a line of 20 eager ranchers. The wait goes quickly as we watch high school teens direct traffic and confirm preorders. There’s an air of excitement and anticipation as we inch our way up the line.

drive thru pickup

pups waiting!

oyster grow bags

oyster baskets

our order is ready!

mussels

pacific triploids

seeds galore!

After gently placing the seeds on ice in the cooler, we are ready to transport these babies home. We first make a quick stop at the onsite Taylor Seafood Market to pick up a bag of recently harvested Manilla clams for tonight’s dinner. Geoduck intrigues us, but we will save this for next time. T is already imagining cooking them Chinese style, pounded and sauteed with fermented black soybeans. Yummy!

geoduck anyone?

We arrive home and the work begins. There’s no time to waste. The negative .37 ft tide is turning and it will soon be high tide. Under Todd’s direction, T gets to work quickly to prepare the planting. With permission from neighborhood authorities, T sinks 2 cement blocks into wet sand to serve as anchors for our baskets. Todd ties double 8 knots, while we zip tie the baskets securely. We’re ready to go!

oyster seed home

a perfect double 8

D does the easy job of gently placing the 300 seeds inside their new home.

Throughout the year we will monitor the growth and health of these oysters. Some die, but most survive. Maintenance includes watching the tide, checking the lines for wear and tear, tossing out expired oysters, separating the large from small growth oysters, and scrubbing out barnacles. One year from now, we are hopeful that our baskets will be filled with 300 sweet and plump morsels, ready to be grilled on the bbq!

Todd’s farm

ready to harvest!

Several times a day the tides ebb and flood, as a result of the gravitational pull of the moon and earth. These tides bring nutrients such as micro algae to our little babies. A single oyster can filter the sea’s water as much as 50 gallons in a single day! During the feeing process, the oyster removes the ocean’s pollutants and leaves the water cleaner. Shells diffuse the ocean’s energy and therefore help in preventing erosion, while also serving as a breeding ground for marine life.

As the flood tide completely submerges all grow bags and baskets, we give a sigh of relief that our part is done. We started the oyster garden for the future reward of a tasty morsel, but learned that our efforts in aquaculture will also make a difference in cleaning our waterways for a healthier environment.

Thank you Todd for your guidance and showing us the ropes. We are looking forward to comparing growth notes (like new parents), sharing recipes and enjoying the bounty of our new oyster garden.